September 21, 2009

Dear Ken:

We have an 800 square foot basement.  About how much would it cost to finish it out?

Jim

There are many variables here, but I'll give you a "ballpark" estimate.  Multiply the total footage by $20 to $25.  Then add about $2000 for the bathroom plumbing and finishing.  In your case, that's about $20,000.  These numbers apply to average finish specifications-that is, not too fancy with the carpet, doors and trim.  If you start adding upgrades like a wet bar, home theater or gas fireplace, you'll have to adjust the totals accordingly.

            If you have prior experience, you could save several thousand dollars by acting as your own general contractor.  But this is not for the inexperienced or timid, as one or two small mistakes or misjudgments can cost more than the contractor's fees, and then some.

            Dear Ken:  I stained my deck, but I overlapped with the brush a little.  Now there are dark streaks.  Help!

            I would have recommend a roller with a broom handle screwed into the handle.  That way you can follow the edges of the boards precisely.  If you were to try and recoat the deck now, it may turn into a sticky mess.  So, let the sun and weather cure it over the winter, and then re-stain early next summer.

            Dear Ken:  I have a plumbing question.  Why is there a burst of hot water when we first turn on a faucet?                                                                                        Mark

            It's expansion.  When the water heater turns on, there is a rise in pressure  caused by a small expansion of the volume of water (hot things expand, cold contracts).  Normally, this isn't a problem, but you should check your home's water pressure anyway. Use a small gauge you can buy in the sprinkler section of the hardware store and attach it to the cold water faucet that feeds your washing machine.  It should read 50 to 55 pounds per sq. inch.  If it's too high, you'll have to adjust the pressure regulator in the basement accordingly.  

            If you notice drips from any plumbing fixture or from that little pressure relief valve on the side of the water heater, you need an expansion tank.  It's a gallon-milk-jug-sized device that is plumbed into the cold water line just before the water heater.  There's a rubber bladder inside that absorbs those pressure changes.  It's particularly handy in homes where the owners like to keep the water heater set to HIGH (but that's OK only if there are no little kids or otherwise disabled folks in the house).

            Dear Ken:  I have 2002 cabinets in my homes.  Trouble is, over the stove, there's a sticky residue of grease I need to get off.  Any ideas of something that won't hurt the finish?

            Try some TSP (tri sodium phosphate) mixed with water;  white vinegar is also a good degreaser.  The ultimate, of course, is mineral sprits (paint thinner), although I think it will eat into the finish slightly, so try an out-of-the-way test first.  This material is flammable and not OK to breathe very long, so take frequent breaks and open the windows!  Follow whichever treatment you choose with Scotts  Liquid Gold or Olde English applied with a rag.

            Dear Ken:  I've heard cellulose insulation has chemicals that can leak into the house.  What do you think?

            I think you've been listening to fiberglass folks.  There are, indeed, fire suppressant chemicals in the cellulose to keep this "paper-like" material from burning.  But they are minimal, and, as far as I know, don't smell.  Besides, the attic and house air spaces are separate (I assume your attic is properly ventilated).  That's why we can leave other, older material up there with undesirable characteristics-like Rockwool.  I like cellulose because it takes less of it to achieve a give R-value, but fiberglass is great, too.