November 15, 2010
Dear Ken: I've got some turbo vents on my roof. Should I block them off? Jerry
I would. They will last longer-theoretically double the number of years-if you keep them shrouded in the winter. The little point bearings that the rotating hood sits on aren't very sophisticated, so they'll last a lot longer if they aren't spinning for half the year. Use a plastic garbage bag and bungee cord arrangement as a cover.
I trust that these aren't the only high attic vents you have. If you have those flat, square vents, leave two or three open year round. If yours is an older home, you may have a gable vent in each end of the attic. Cover the most north-facing one with a cheap furnace filter to keep the snow out and leave its opposite-facing partner open. Why? If you block off all ventilation in the attic, you risk trapping moisture up there-and that can turn into a mold situation. Also, ice dams may form on the northerly gutters if you trap too much heat up there. Bottom line: block off some-but not all-attic vents in the winter.
Speaking of shrouds, I'm often asked whether or not it's a good idea to cover the outside air conditioning condensing unit. I think it is. For the cost of a kit (less than $15) you buy some longevity . If you protect the metal casing, it will rust and corrode less and may last a year or two longer near the end of its life. Also, the plastic cover will keep debris from affecting those delicate metal fins that radiate the heat. Use the same arrangement mentioned above for the turbines, but leave an inch or so open at the bottom so air can circulate through the insides of the unit.
Dear Ken: Can insulation settle? Mine in the attic seems to be less than I remember. Lorraine
Yes, insulation can get "less tall" over time-and that means a lower R-value. It settles in response to vibration form traffic noise and also from ambient humidity than can affect the little air cells in the blown material. This process takes a long time, so I wouldn't expect any significant settling until at least 20 years has gone by. By then, the recommended standards will have increased anyway. Twenty-five years ago, we used about 9 inches of fiberglass, Rockwool or cellulose loose insulation up there. Now the recommendation is about 15 inches for an R-48 or so.
Dear Ken: I can't seem to get my new toilet flapper valve to work properly. It sometimes won't stay open for the whole flush. Can you help me? Carl
This repair is pretty much trial and error. First, make sure that the chain has almost no slack. It should hang straight with just a little curve along its length. Sort of a Goldilocks thing-not too much, not too little. When you make the adjustment, don't cut the chain just yet.
If it still sticks, try moving the chain hook sideways into another hole. That offset can provide more "yank" away from the drain hole.
Dear Ken: I'm having one bathroom remodeled. The contractor does not intend to replace the shower tub valve. What would you do? Teri
While he's got the tub enclosure torn apart, why not put in a new valve? Compared to the cost of replacing it later, this is a no-brainer. Even though it seems to be working OK now, believe me, there is wear and tear inside: a microscopic scouring effect from the rushing water can wear out the valve seat, and that's usually not repairable.
