November 14, 2020
Dear Ken: We have one of those new front loading washers. It’s on the 2nd floor, and when it spins, the whole house shakes. Do you think we should move the laundry downstairs? Rhonda
Not yet. These front loading models are more sensitive to out-of-level situations than their top loading cousins. If your machine is supposedly “self-leveling”, fine, but check it anyway with a carpenter’s level to be sure. Also, try to balance the loads a little more precisely by washing only full loads, instead of individual items.
Here’s something else to check. One of my listeners said that the installers forgot to remove the shipping screws on the back of his front loading washer. Once that was done the built-in shock absorbers were able to do their thing; so check that out.
Another idea is this fix that almost always works: If you have a pedestal under the washer and dryer with integral drawers add weight inside each one—maybe concrete blocks, a few bricks, or even a stack of 12” x 12 tiles. The added ballast in that pedestal quiets everything down--guarantee it.
Here’s another reminder to install a water alarm and valve set up there. The alarm is a little sensor that sits on the floor behind the washer, and when it senses moisture from, say, a broken hose, it closes the hot and cold water valves. Go to www.thewateralarm.com for starters.
Dear Ken: We used your food coloring tip to diagnose a leaky flapper valve. The color showed up in the bowl, so we assumed the valve was leaking and replaced it. But the toilet still “burps” several times a day. What else can we do? Tom
You may need to take one more step. It could be that the tank opening under the flapper valve has some microscopic cracks or fissures that are letting a tiny amount of water flow through. After a while, the incoming fill valve reacts to the now lower water level by injecting a small spurt of water into the tank. The scheme is actually designed into the valve—it’s a sort of leak detector that lets you know there’s a problem.
You may need a new valve seat—the part that the flapper flops down on to--instead of the original hole in the tank. FluidMaster sells a combination flapper valve and seat that includes a small ribbon of mastic underneath. You squish the whole thing over the old opening, after you’ve scrupulously cleaned the bottom of the tank. That creates a new “hole”--a metal ring that will seal the flapper valve properly.
Dear Ken: I have an 80’s house with that old stained T-111 siding. How can I rejuvenate it? Gene
This stuff is pretty difficult. It’s basically fir plywood with grooves in it. As you know, our high elevation sunshine is pretty hard on natural material. Try power washing to remove checking and deterioration on the surface. Then, if you still want the stained look, apply a semi-transparent, water- or oil-based product. Keep in mind, though, that you’ll have to renew it every 3 years or so to keep the wood in reasonable shape.
Another alternative is to apply a good exterior primer and then latex paint. It will look more traditional and not as rustic as if it were stained, but it will last years longer, since the surface will now be sealed away from the elements.
Dear Ken: We have a swamp cooler on the roof. There are several large cracks along the ceiling where the vents are. Can you explain this? Linda
Have the ceiling structure checked first. You could call a local home inspector or remodeling contractor to take a look at the trusses up in the attic. The weight of the cooler may have deflected one or two of them to such an extent that they have cracked. In that case, you could “sister” in new boards to help absorb the load.
Another possibility: the weight of the big, heavy ducts leading to the vents is too much for the sheet rock to carry. In that case, you’ll need to add additional hold-up straps in the attic to the ducting to ease the load on the ceiling.
The cracks can be spackled and then repainted. This is no slam-dunk for us homeowners, since it’s tough to match the existing texture layer. So if they are extensive, consider hiring a professional drywall contractor to blend them in with their surroundings.
Dear Ken: The gas man says I need more outside air for the furnace room, which has been closed off. I do have a crawl space. Will that help? Clair
Yes. The crawl space is an ideal environment through which to draw outside air. It sort of pre-conditions it—gets it closer to room temperature--on the way through. Also, drawing air in this way helps keep the crawl space dryer, because it agitates the normally stale air in there. Just be sure that you leave an outside vent or two open in the crawl space.
There is a better way, though. You’re now allowed to draw most—if not all—of it from the inside spaces. The rules are somewhat complicated, so ask your furnace tech about perhaps adding a louvered door to the furnace room or some strategically-placed wall grilles here and there. That way, you’re not pulling those gobs of cold, raw outside through the crawl space.
