May 3, 2010
Dear Ken: Some pipes have been leaking under my kitchen sink. Now there's some feathery black stuff (mold?) under there. Is it dangerous? Should I be worried? Please help. Nel
We need to treat this as soon as possible, but it's almost never a health issue you need to worry about. Only about 15% to 20% of the population is allergic to mold spores, anyway, and their reactions are seldom serious. Nevertheless, you need to get right to it.
First, turn the water off to stop the leak. Don't ventilate the cabinet mechanically-as with a fan--but instead let it dry with normal evaporation. Open the kitchen window and patio door to speed up the process.
We should treat the contamination before a plumber goes under there. Spray a Clorox and water mixture on it (undoubtedly some sort of mold or mildew). Put a dust mask on, and then wipe up as much as you can with paper towels. Put the towels inside a plastic back and discard them. Once it's totally dry, spray on a couple of coats of a good primer/sealer, like BullsEye or KILZ.
Next, find an appropriately-sized piece of vinyl flooring that will cover the whole underside of the sink cabinet (you can find small scraps at a tile store, and they are usually free). That vinyl offers great protection for the rest of us who don't have a chronic leak. There's usually a wet spot under the kitchen sprayer, since water dribbles down and off the hose. The vinyl keeps it from soaking in, so it evaporates without harming anything. Under-sink leaks are hard to catch, since there's always so many cans and bottles under there. All the same, you should run your hand over the cabinet floor from time to time, so you catch problems early.
Dear Ken: I live in a condominium complex. We have lots of dandelions and other weeds. I don't want to use poison because of cats, dogs and deer coming by. What do you think? H.H.
I'd go ahead with the herbicide. Animals are pretty good at avoiding stuff that doesn't smell right. Besides, if cats and dogs are out wandering around, it's a violation of the leash law, and that's not your problem. Same with the deer; they seldom graze in one area too long, anyway. In my area, they don't even bother with the grass, but just with the delicious plants and bushes!
These chemicals are heavily controlled by the EPA, so don't worry. Check with the applicator company, and I'm sure they'll give you similar advice.
Dear Ken: I'm thinking of adding blown insulation into the attic. Most of the recessed light fixtures are not covered up. Is it OK to cover them? Paul
There are two types of recessed "cans". One is approved for a blown insulation cap, and one is not. Nevertheless, I like to keep them all open. Why? The newer, protected style has internal electronics that prevent a heat overload. Sometimes these "thermistors" get touchy and overreact, causing blinking and constant cycling--and it is almost always in a fixture that's hard to get to overhead. So, have the insulators build a little "dam" of that shiny, foil-backed, bubble sheet material around each one. Bottom line: leave all the light fixtures open on top.
Dear Ken: I have a water softener. When I run the house water through it, the pressure is very low. But when I bypass it, everything's normal. Any ideas? Jim
If you are on heavily chlorinated water-like a small community system-or on a well, the resin beads that actually do the softening can deteriorate and turn to a sand-like material. You'll need to dump the tank and replace the beads. Contact the manufacturer to get a new supply.
They will also sell you a rebuild kit, containing flapper valve disks, orifices and o-rings. These parts can also fail, but they are easy to replace. Make sure you have all the installation and operating instructions on hand. If you can't find them, go the company's web site and download the appropriate PDF file.
