May 10, 2010

     Dear Readers: Time for my annual lecture about the drainage around your home. Before the summer rains come, you need to reanalyze just what happens to the water that lands on top of and around the foundation. About three quarters of this water runs into the gutters and down the spouts. The ends of all downspout extension pipes should be discharged well beyond the concrete foundation. I recommend ten feet, minimum, or to the nearest gravity outfall, that is down the slope to the neighbor's house or towards the street. And make sure the way. First openings are always visible, as they tend to plug up if they are ignored. What kind of pipe? I like the black, flexible 3 or 4 inch polyethylene style. You can bury it out of the, though, discard the "flip up" extenders that came with the house. After a year or two, they're collapsed, broken and useless.
      Check the sprinkler system zone valve box, to make sure it is dry. Do this every couple of weeks during the summer. It helps to line the box with some plastic sheeting and to cut some vent holes in the top.
      Dryscape--rocks or bark--is a good idea within three or four feet of the foundation--and is especially important for newer houses. The disturbed earth around the foundation takes as long as ten years or so to return to its original density. So any added moisture here is asking for trouble. What kind? Most areas in or near the foothills have some clay in their soil mix. This is the stuff that can cause movement of the underlying structural elements of your precious home.
      Don't forget to clean the gutters in the spring, too. Those pesky deciduous tree seeds and pods can plug everything up when the first rainfall comes along.
Finally, it helps to check what is happening while a storm is actually raging--rather than wait until it passes. You may see ponding near the house that you can divert away with some simple soil rearrangement.

     Dear Ken: I have a painted deck I want to strip down, but I don't want to use any chemicals which might harm the trees and bushes. Patrick
      Chemicals may not be necessary at all. First, power wash the deck surface. You'll have to strike a delicate balance between getting the nozzle close enough to remove the paint, but keeping it far away to prevent gouging the wood. This process probably won't remove all the paint. For the remainder, you're going to need some mechanical action. You can hire a hardwood floor installer to bring a big sander to finish the job. Before they get there, countersink the screws with your power drill/screwdriver. If yours is an older deck with hand-driven nails, use a punch to set those heads a little lower.

      Dear Ken: I'm getting an expensive new roof next week. Is this the best time to install an electric attic fan to vent the attic? Clayton
      It is--as well as additional vents, like turbines. However, I'm a big fan(pun intended) of whole house fans set into the hallway ceiling. They are easy to get to and operate, unlike attic fans. And they move gobs of cooler air into the attic each evening, whereas the attic variety tend to simply move around the afternoon's hottest air.
     If you decide to install a whole house fan--and before the roofers come-- check the manufacturer's installation instructions for the total net free vent openings required. Most attics are under-ventilated somewhat, so they can't release the large volume of air these devices move. In the Rockies, they operate more efficiently than in any other part of the country, because our high elevation, less heavy air mass cools quickly after sundown. And that pleasant air stream can not only cool the living space quickly, but also can shove the day's hot air out of the attic. Remember to install a one-hour timer switch for the fan instead of a regular snap switch. That way, you won't expose the family to carbon monoxide fumes if you fall asleep with the unit running.