March 29, 2010
Dear Ken: My roof is about 13 years old. Can you tell me when it's time to replace it? Ken
Generally, we don't throw away a roof that's doing its job, that is, it's intact, undamaged and not leaking. Up until about six or seven years ago, the typical asphalt roof consisted of T-lock shingles. They were marketed as a "20 year roof". However, they've been discontinued at least in part because insurances companies got tired of paying for their vulnerabilities-especially to hail storms.
Now, we use so-called dimensional shingles. They are also asphalt but weigh almost twice as much as the old T-locks, and so are much more resilient. These come in 30 (the minimum), 40, and 50 year varieties-and there's even a "lifetime" warranty on the most expensive kind. These warranties are usually pro-rata from the manufacturer. However, in the Rockies many areas get hail storms severe enough to destroy a roof long before the published lifetime of the shingles.
In your case, relax: thirteen years is no big deal. If you're so-inclined, you may want to pray for hail, as most of my friends in the roofing business do all the time.
Dear Ken: My son has a cedar fence. He wants to stain it. What do you think is the best brand? Dennis
I'm not a fan of staining fences, because, once you start, you have to re-stain every year. Cedar fences default to that lovely grayish, brown patina if you do nothing; I may be prejudiced towards this look because I grew up in New England, which, its coast lines, is rife with those old cedar-shingled homes that are so enchanting.
Anyway, if your son really wants to do this, have him use the same stain that he applies to his deck. Superdeck, Behr, Olympia are all good brands-as are the paint store varieties, like Sherwin Williams am Benjamin Moore. Make sure whichever he uses is formulated with linseed and Tung oils, and that it contains a mildewcide plus a UV light reflective oxide chemical.
I would avoid the so-called water sealers, and any other stain that is water based. They don't tend to last as long as the oil-based products here at our higher elevation.
Dear Ken: I tested for radon gas, but only used one container. Now, I'm wondering if I should have used two or more. Steve
You should have used a pair, set within a few inches of each other and exposed for exactly the same time period. This is like someone on a desert island with only one watch. Do they ever really know what time it is without a second one? (Or do they even care?)
In the case of radon, the results of the two exposures should be within tiny percentage points of each other, for example, one might read 3.25 and the other 3.4. That way, they verify each other, and then you know that the level is pretty much within that range. When you test, follow the published protocol regarding windows, doors and ventilation to the letter.
For more advice, go to www.epa.gov and look for The Citizen's Guide to Radon .
Dear Ken: We live in the eastern plains. Our toilet bowls get stained all the time. My husband uses a pumice stone, but it still comes back. Any ideas?
Ardis
It would be helpful to know what contaminate is causing this; my guess is iron. How long since you've had your well checked? I ask because sometimes the presence of iron can introduce bacteria into the system. Check with your well guy, and also with a water conditioning company, which will have an appropriate filter for your water supply.
In the meantime, you can use an oxalic acid based product, like Barkeepers Friend or one of the Watkins products obtainable on line. I know it's tempting to throw one of those cleaning tablets into each tank, as they work pretty well (although they can eat away at your flapper valve). However my friends in the septic business say they are bad for the bacteria in the septic tank. So, unless you are on a city system, avoid this step.
