June 21, 2010
Dear Ken: I have those hard calcium buildups around my faucets. I've tried everything. Any other ideas besides replacing them? Eleanor
Have you tried steam? You can buy small, portable steamers at home centers, linen stores and even on the Web. They are quite effective when all else fails for these pesky hard water stains.
Have you thought about a water softener? They are pretty cheap, considering how much easier your life be and how much cleaner your kitchen and baths will end up. Go for the basic sodium ion exchange system. You, your kids, the plants and the pets don't need any more sodium in your lives, so make sure to plumb the cold water kitchen and icemaker lines to the "unsoftened" side.
Dear Ken: I'm getting quotes on central A/C. Have you ever heard of Goodman? Greg
I have. It's a Tennessee company that was started in 1982 by a heating contactor; this brand is very popular with homebuilders and HVAC contractors. I haven't heard any specific grumbling about Goodman quality. However, a new A/C system is pretty expansive, so get at least three bids to include other major brands, like Trane, Rheem, Carrier and Lennox, for example. I would go not for price, but for the least noise. If the condensing unit is going to be near the deck or patio, you'll appreciate a quieter unit.
Dear Ken: My driveway is 30 years old and is crumbly and patched. Does resurfacing help? Therese
Patching and coating an existing driveway is usually a waste of time and money. The car tires exert much more pressure in pounds per square inch than any thin topcoat can tolerate (not true for patios and walkways--patching them usually works out well).
It's better to replace an old concrete driveway, than to fool with it over and over. Many times, it's just certain sections that are bad, so they can be saw-cut, removed and replaced with new concrete. Also, make sure the old dirt under the driveway slab is reworked. If the builder had simply laid down concrete on the native dirt, it's best to remove the top 6 inches or so and replace it with a compacted, crushed gravel mix before installing the new material.
Be sure that the new concrete contains reinforcing material, like small plastic shards that bind it together. And don't skimp on strength. It costs just a little more to go to, say, a 3000 pound or even higher cement mix.
If you live in an area of expanding (clay) soils, a new asphalt driveway may work out better that concrete. It's more forgiving of movement up or down, and it can be patched easily and as often as you like.
Dear Ken: During our home inspection, they noticed a void under the foundation wall. The inspector said this must be filled and compacted to support the house. Now what? Jerry
Voids-empty spaces-under the foundation wall are usually intentional and pose little risk of structural failure. One of the ways to engineer a house in an expansive soil area is to design the foundation to push back if the soil wants to move upward. Although this design isn't as common as it used to be, we would put square pieces of cardboard at strategic spots at the bottom of the wall before the concrete went in. Eventually the cardboard would disintegrate and so the foundation came to rest on only portions if its bottom. That applied more concentrated force to counteract any soil movement. The result was known as a "grade beam". That may be what has your inspector so agitated.
Bottom line: As buildings go, a single family house is a relatively light structure, so voided areas under its foundation are easily bridged over by the reinforced concrete wall. If there are no obvious cracks in these areas-either in the wall itself or upstairs, and if doors and windows operate properly, then no big deal. Perhaps this inspector needs to study up on older construction procedures.
