July 13, 2009
Fred's pit is empty: The builder put in a sump pump pit in the basement, but there isn't a pump inside. Do you think I need one? It's about a third full now.
Generally, builders don't install a pump if the pit is dry when the house is finished-or unless the soils engineer specifically requests it. If there is that much standing water in your pit, I would install one. They cost less than $100, but are a great insurance policy against flooding. Be sure to install a check valve in the vertical pipe line from the pump; it prevents water from sliding back down into the pit after the pump shuts off. Most importantly, make sure the pipe is long enough on the outside to really get the water away from the foundation. Otherwise, you may end up pumping the same water over and over, as it makes a round trip from the surface back into the French drain. By the way, I recommend a sump pump for ALL finished basements, whether the pit is wet or dry.
One other good idea is a water alarm hanging inside the pit hole. That way, if the water level rises too high, you'll be alerted. You can buy one at an electronics store or on the Web.
Geraldine has a noisy tub: I have a single lever shower and tub faucet. Lately it makes strange noises and the hot water surges and then almost stops. What's going on?
It sounds like the faucet needs rebuilding. Depending on the brand, you can buy a kit full of replacement parts-springs, washers and screws-that are fairly easy to install. Shut off the water, remove the plastic handle and unscrew the chrome sleeve which holds the whole thing together. Follow the directions and you'll have, essentially, a brand new faucet. Some brands-like Moen-are even easier to work with. You simply remove a central cartridge , which contains all the afore-mentioned parts inside, slide in a new one, and you're back in business.
John wants to save energy: We are in a new home in a windy area. We feel drafts along the baseboards and through the plugs. Can we add more wall insulation?
Probably not. The walls of new homes are chock full of batt insulation, so there's really not room for more. Check the outside-specifically where the siding hangs down over the foundation walls. You may need to fill the gaps with some expanding insulating foam. Let it expand overnight, then trim the edges. You could also try caulking or stuff in chunks of fiberglass.
Remove the outlet covers and probe around the boxes, looking for more foam. If the builder skipped this step, you can inject some behind the drywall. Not too much, though. If you overdue it, you could put strain on the back if the electrical boxes. Also, apply some of those foam pads behind the switch and plug plates.
It sounds like you live in a windy area, so window coverings are doubly important. Choose cellular shades over mini blinds, for example. You could also install some interior storm windows.
Michael has a new fence: It is regular cedar with metal posts. How long should I wait before I put on a clear sealer?
Let it dry out and stabilize for 30 days or so. Then you can apply one of the many available oil-based deck stains. I would avoid a clear product, because the sun cooks it away in no time; use one of the tinted varieties. Once you start this process, the coating will have to be renewed once or twice a year to cancel out deterioration from UV light and the sprinkler system.


