August 10, 2009
Dear Ken: Our water heater is in the basement. We have to wait a full minute to get hot water to the bathroom. How can we speed up this process? Brad
If you have unfinished access in the basement underneath the appropriate spaces, you can install a 3rd pipe from the bottom of the water heater tank and run it to that farthest bath. The natural convection (hot fluids tend to rise and cold sinks) will slowly circulate hot water to the fixtures.
However, most folks have a finished basement to contend with. But don't despair, because there are a couple of clever devices available to you. One is called the Auto-Circ ( www.autocirc.com ). It's a small pump you install under the vanity in that far-away bathroom. It comes with homeowner-friendly fittings; simply bridge across the hot and cold lines with plastic pipe and plug it in. When the built-in timer turns on, say early in the morning, the pump slowly pulls hot water up one line and shoves it down the other, and, presto, instant hot water.
Also, check out www.hotwaterlobster.com for a similar device that doesn't need electricity. It relies instead on thermal sensing to open a valve.
The costs? The Autocirc is around $225 and the Lobster about $180.
Dear Ken: I have window well issues. They are corroding badly and also have tipped away. Any ideas? Do I have to take them out and reinstall? L.T.
The rust and corrosion can be covered with an appropriate rust-combining metal paint. But it will continue if water stays behind the well. So, make sure there is a 2-inch lip from the top edge to the ground, and that the soil slopes away smartly.
It's a big deal to remove the window well and re hang it. I would try something else first. Use some expanding foam insulation to fill in the gaps-but not quite to the surface. This material should not be exposed to sunlight, so it needs to be covered with exterior caulking.
One of my listeners has also suggested polyurethane and rubber liquid bed liner as an easy way to fill in gaps on concrete. It might work here, also. Check with an auto parts store.
Dear Ken: I'm doing some remodeling around my house. I'm new at this. Tell me how to haggle with contractors.
The first price doesn't have to be the final price. Keep in mind, though, that the company has to make a reasonable profit plus pay the overhead. There's nothing worse than dealing with a contactor who isn't making enough money. They may drag out the job and may not respond quickly (if at all) to your callbacks after the fact.
Why not ask for a 10% discount at first? Also, these folks almost always appreciate cash versus a check or credit card; it's their business what they do with it afterwards. So, in addition, ask for a cash discount after the job price is agreed upon.
Finally, I don't think it's ethical to play one guy's price off on another. For example, the first company-someone you really like--may say $5000 for the complete job. The second may bid $4000. If you ask the first person to match it, it's unfair to the lower company, who worked up an honest bid. If the first outfit didn't take their best shot up front, too bad. Graham
Dear Ken: I want to paint the concrete walls in the basement. Do I need to worry about using a water-proof kind? Raymond
If there are no visible signs of moisture behind the wall, I wouldn't spend the extra money. Besides, we always start on the outside when we need to keep water out. Downspouts, the sprinkler system, and the slope of the perimeter soil are all major contributors to wet basements. Simply painting the walls inside seldom works. I would use a regular satin latex material applied with a roller.
