April 6, 2009

            Betty's had a rough winter:   I live in a two story townhome.  When it snows,  the wind blows it into the attic and then it melts through the ceiling.   How do I tackle this?

            It's  pretty easy, but it does require a trip up into the attic.  Grab some cheap fiberglass furnace filters and tape them on the underside of each offending roof vent.  That will keep the snow out, but will still allow a little air movement back and forth.  Don't forget to remove them in the spring after the risk of snow has passed.

            If you have a vaulted or cathedral ceiling, you can still block out the infiltrating snow.  Simply apply some heavy plastic sheeting over the top (outside) of the vent from the roof side.

            Fred took out a shower door:  The previous owner had used silicone around the frame.  How can I remove the leftover residue?

            Rubber silicone is easy to strip off in "ribbons"-just start tugging on one end, ease a putty knife underneath and pull.  The remaining  residue will usually respond to some mineral spirits rubbed on with a rag.    Ventilate the area and take frequent breaks for some fresh air.

            For plain old painter's caulk-like old hardened acrylic--3M and other companies make a gel-like caulking remover that works well.

            Rick needs more storage:  I'd like to add a floor and maybe eventually a room in the attic space.  Can you help me with insulation and ventilation issues?

            There's a bigger problem here.  The trusses in the attic were carefully engineered to hold the weight of the roofing (plus a snow load as appropriate for your elevation) and the weight of the drywall below.  And that's it!  If you want to add additional loads, like the new floor plus items you want to store up there, you may exceed the design limits of the trusses.  One indication that you've done so is the appearance of cracks in the drywall below, as the trusses sag under the load.

            There is, however, a little built-in over-design that  means you'll probably be OK if you go easy.  Lay down a layer of plywood and use the space for LIGHTWEIGHT but bulky items, like empty suitcases, skis, Christmas decorations and empty computer and stereo boxes;  avoid books and other heavy stuff.  If you still want to put an actual room  up there, check with a structural engineer who may be able to design some "beefing up" of the trusses and ceiling joists.

            Dan is finishing the basement:  We are carpeting most of this new area.  They  want to sell us a carpet with a moisture barrier on it so spills don't penetrate the pad.  Is that OK?

            I wouldn't make that choice.  It's important that the concrete floor in the basement be allowed to "breathe".   In almost all homes, there is invisible moisture that wants to escape into the dryer air environment of the basement space.  It comes through the floor and even the concrete walls (that's why I don't recommend a vapor barrier on the wall insulation down there).  I'm not talking about anything drastic, like standing water, but simply small amounts of vapor that, if not allowed to escape, can lead to damp conditions under your carpeting or inside the walls.  So use carpeting with a regular backing-like jute.  It'll probably save you money anyway.

            Mary wants to remove a mirror:  How can I get it off the bathroom wall with the minimum amount of damage?

            First, cover the entire surface with crisscrossed layers of duct tape.  Then use some fine wire to "saw" back and forth, starting at one corner.  You then may be able to ease a large putty knife behind it.  If not, you'll have to break it with a hammer.   The duct tape will hold it altogether so the refuse will be small chunks of glass.  This is  two-person job.  Wear a long sleeved shirts and gloves and use goggles to protect your self.